Blue Dream Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi ‘Blue Dream’)

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Product care

For live fish: Acclimate new arrivals by floating the sealed bag in your aquarium for 15-20 minutes to equalise temperature, then gradually introduce tank water over 10 minutes before releasing. Maintain stable water parameters with regular testing and weekly 20-30% water changes. Feed a varied diet appropriate to the species. For aquarium equipment and accessories: Follow the manufacturer instructions included with each product. Store fish food in a cool, dry place and use within the recommended timeframe for best results.

Description

Blue Dream Shrimp species portrait

Essential Equipment

Sponge Filter — Essential for shrimp; prevents babies being sucked in
Heater (25W per 20L) — Maintain 22–26°C
LED Light (low-medium) — Grows biofilm and algae, primary food sources
Thermometer — Neocaridina are sensitive to temperature swings
TDS Meter — Monitor total dissolved solids; ideal range 150–250 ppm
Mineral supplement (GH+) — Sydney water is soft; supplement to GH 6–8
Mon
Tue
Wed
Thu
Fri
Sat
Sun
Staple (shrimp pellet / snowflake food)
Veggie (blanched spinach / zucchini)
Biofilm / fast day

Stage 1

Day 1–3

Mating

Stage 2

Day 3–5

Fertilisation

Stage 3

Day 5–25

Berried Period

Stage 4

Day 25–28

Hatching

Mating

The female molts and immediately releases pheromones into the water column, triggering a “mating frenzy” where males swim rapidly and erratically in search of her. This frantic behaviour is entirely normal and usually lasts 12–24 hours. Ensure the tank is well-covered during this period as excited males may jump.

Fertilisation

The male deposits a sperm packet and the female collects it to fertilise her eggs internally. She then arranges 20–40 fertilised eggs under her swimmerets (pleopods) at the underside of her abdomen. The eggs are visible as a dark green or brown cluster — a “berried” female is carrying eggs.

Berried Period

The female fans her eggs constantly for 20–25 days to oxygenate them and prevent fungal growth. Avoid disturbing the tank or performing large water changes during this period. The eggs gradually lighten in colour as they develop, shifting from dark green to transparent just before hatching.

Hatching

Unlike many aquatic invertebrates, Neocaridina shrimp hatch as fully formed miniature adults with no larval stage. The baby shrimp are self-sufficient from birth and immediately begin grazing on biofilm. A mature, heavily planted tank with abundant moss and biofilm provides the best survival conditions for shrimplets.


From Wild to Dream

The Blue Dream is a selectively bred colour morph of Neocaridina davidi — the same species as the Red Cherry Shrimp, but carrying the blue colour gene instead. The ‘Dream’ name was coined by Taiwanese and German shrimp breeders in the early 2010s to describe the deep, solid blue colouration achieved through years of selective breeding. Wild N. davidi are unremarkable brownish-grey shrimp — the explosion of colour variants (Red Cherry, Orange Sakura, Yellow, Blue Dream, Chocolate, Black Rose, and more) all emerged from careful isolation of natural colour mutations by dedicated hobbyist breeders, primarily in Taiwan, Germany, and Japan. The Blue Dream represents one of the most stable blue lines — unlike many blue shrimp varieties that tend to revert to brown, Blue Dreams breed true with consistent deep blue offspring. Grading follows the same system as Cherries: from translucent Blue Jelly through Blue Velvet to the highest grade Blue Dream (fully opaque, deep navy blue including legs).

The Blue Dream Shrimp is a stunning deep-blue colour morph of Neocaridina davidi — the same hardy species behind the beloved Red Cherry Shrimp. Combining eye-catching sapphire colouration with bulletproof beginner-friendliness, Blue Dreams are the perfect entry point into the world of ornamental shrimp keeping. They breed readily, clean your tank, and look absolutely electric against green plants and dark substrates.

🦐 Species at a Glance

Scientific Name Neocaridina davidi ‘Blue Dream’
Common Names Blue Dream Shrimp, Blue Velvet Shrimp
Family Atyidae
Origin Selectively bred — wild form from Taiwan & Eastern China
Adult Size 2–3 cm (0.8–1.2 in)
Lifespan 1–2 years
Temperature 18–28 °C (64–82 °F), ideal 22–25 °C
pH Range 6.5–8.0
Hardness (dGH) 4–14 dGH
Diet Omnivore — biofilm, algae, shrimp pellets, blanched veggies
Min Tank Size 20 L (5 gal)
Care Level Easy
Temperament Completely peaceful
Breeding Easy — freshwater, no larval stage


Neocaridina Colour Varieties

All the popular Neocaridina colour morphs are the same speciesNeocaridina davidi. They share identical care requirements and can interbreed freely, though crossing different colours will produce wild-type (brownish) offspring. For this reason, keep only one colour per tank if you want to maintain the line.

Neocaridina colour varieties comparison — Red Cherry, Blue Dream, Yellow, Bloody Mary

🔴 Red Cherry

Red Cherry

The original and most popular colour morph. Ranges from pale pink (low grade) to deep fire-engine red (Painted Fire Red).

🔵 Blue Dream

Blue Dream

Deep sapphire blue, opaque across the entire body. Our strain — stunning against green plants and dark substrates.

🟡 Yellow (Golden Back)

Bright lemon-yellow body, often with a distinctive golden dorsal stripe. Cheerful and easy to spot.

Yellow Golden Back Neocaridina shrimp

🟢 Bloody Mary

Bloody Mary

Deep transparent red — colour comes from internal tissue rather than the shell, giving a glowing appearance.

💡 Mixing colours? If you keep Blue Dream with Red Cherry in the same tank, the offspring will revert to wild-type brown within a few generations. Stick to one colour per tank to preserve the line.


Visual Identification

Blue Dream Shrimp display a deep, opaque blue colouration across the entire body and legs. High-grade specimens show solid, uniform blue with no translucent patches. The colour intensifies with age, good diet, and dark substrate.

Blue Dream Shrimp anatomy and identification diagram
♂ vs ♀ — How to tell them apart
Male and female Blue Dream Shrimp look very similar in colour. The key differences are:
Size — Females are noticeably larger and rounder (up to 3 cm vs ~2.5 cm for males).
Colour intensity — Females are typically deeper blue; males may show slightly lighter or more translucent patches.
Saddle — Mature females develop a visible yellow-green “saddle” behind the head (eggs in ovaries).
Underbelly curve — Females have a curved underbelly for carrying eggs; males are straighter.


Water Parameters

Neocaridina are famously adaptable — they tolerate a wide range of parameters as long as conditions remain stable. Sudden swings in temperature or pH are far more dangerous than being slightly outside the ideal range. Use a drip system for water changes rather than dumping fresh water in.

pH

6.5–8.0

very adaptable

18–28 °C

ideal 22–25 °C

4–14 dGH

some mineral content preferred for moulting

💡 Tip: If you notice failed moults (white ring of death behind the head), your water is too soft. Add a small amount of mineral supplement (Salty Shrimp GH/KH+ or similar) to provide calcium and magnesium for shell formation.


Tank Setup

Blue Dream Shrimp thrive in planted tanks with plenty of surfaces to graze. Mosses (Java Moss, Christmas Moss), fine-leaved plants, and driftwood provide excellent grazing area and hiding spots for baby shrimp. A dark substrate (black sand or soil) makes the blue colour pop dramatically.

Aquarium water zones diagram showing surface, mid-water, and substrate layers

Use a sponge filter — it’s the gold standard for shrimp tanks. HOB and canister filters risk sucking up baby shrimp; if you use one, always cover the intake with a fine sponge pre-filter. Gentle flow is ideal.

⚠️ Copper is lethal to shrimp. Never use copper-based medications (common in ich treatments) in a shrimp tank. Always check medication ingredients before dosing. Even trace copper from new plumbing can be harmful.


Diet & Feeding

Blue Dreams are unfussy eaters. Their primary food source is the biofilm and algae that naturally grow on every surface in a planted tank. Supplement with quality shrimp-specific food 3–4 times per week — less is more, as overfeeding is the fastest way to crash water quality in a small shrimp tank.

Food Frequency Notes
Natural biofilm & algae Always available Primary diet — a mature tank provides this naturally
Shrimp pellets (GlasGarten, Dennerle) 3–4× per week Drop 1–2 pellets per 10 shrimp; remove uneaten after 2 hours
Blanched spinach / zucchini 1–2× per week Excellent supplemental greens; remove after 12 hours
Dried mulberry / Indian almond leaves Always in tank Shrimp graze the biofilm that grows on decomposing leaves


Breeding

This is where Neocaridina truly shine — they breed effortlessly in home aquariums with zero intervention. No brackish water, no special setup, no separating fry. If you have males and females in decent water, you’ll have babies within weeks.

Females carry 20–40 eggs under their swimmerets (the small legs under the tail) for 3–4 weeks. You’ll easily spot “berried” females — the egg mass is visible as a cluster of tiny round eggs tucked under the abdomen. The babies hatch as miniature versions of the adults, about 2 mm long, and are fully independent from day one.

💡 Tip: Dense moss and hiding spots dramatically improve baby shrimp survival. Java Moss is the single best addition for a breeding shrimp tank — shrimplets hide in it and graze on the biofilm that grows between the fronds.


Community Tank Mates

Choosing the right companions is critical for shrimp survival. Avoid any fish large enough to eat adults or shrimplets.

✅ / ⚠️ / ❌ Species Why
Otocinclus Completely peaceful, won’t eat shrimplets
Small Rasboras (Chili, Exclamation) Too small to eat adult shrimp
Nerite Snails Peaceful algae eaters, won’t breed in freshwater
⚠️ Endler’s Livebearers May eat some shrimplets but adults are safe
⚠️ Pygmy Corydoras Generally safe but may eat very young shrimplets
Bettas Unpredictable; some hunt shrimp relentlessly
Any Cichlid Will eat shrimp
Angel Fish Shrimp are snacks for Angels


Colour Grading

Blue Dream Shrimp are graded by opacity and uniformity of colour. The deeper and more opaque the blue across the entire body (including legs), the higher the grade. Here’s what to look for:

Grade Appearance What to Expect
Low Translucent body with blue tint, clear legs Budget-friendly; offspring may vary in colour intensity
Medium Solid blue body, some translucent patches on legs Good colour; reliable for breeding deeper blues over generations
High (Dream) Deep, opaque sapphire blue across body and all legs Premium grade; consistent colour in offspring
💡 Improving colour over generations: Select your most intensely coloured shrimp for breeding stock. Cull or rehome paler individuals to a separate tank. Within 3–4 generations, you’ll see a noticeable improvement in average colour intensity.


Acclimation & First-Week Care

Proper acclimation prevents shock and greatly improves survival. Never rush this process.

Step-by-Step Acclimation

  1. Float the sealed bag in your aquarium for 15–20 minutes to equalise temperature.
  2. Open the bag and roll down the edges to create a floating collar.
  3. Drip acclimation: Add approximately ¼ cup of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes for 90–120 minutes (shrimp are the most sensitive to water parameter changes).
  4. Net and release — gently net the fish/shrimp and place them into the aquarium. Discard the bag water; never pour it into your tank.
Neocaridina shrimp are extremely sensitive to copper, chloramine, and rapid TDS/GH changes. The drip acclimation must be slow and thorough — rushing causes mass die-offs within 24–48 hours. If your TDS differs by more than 50 ppm from the bag water, extend to a 2-hour drip. Never use tap water without a quality dechlorinator that neutralises chloramine.

First-Week Checklist

  • Keep lights dimmed for the first 24–48 hours to reduce stress.
  • Do NOT perform water changes for the first 5 days — let them settle.
  • Feed biofilm (no supplemental food needed initially if the tank is cycled).
  • If you see them swimming frantically, check GH and TDS immediately.
  • Monitor ammonia and nitrite daily — any spike above 0.25 ppm warrants an immediate 25% water change.
  • Observe for signs of disease (white spots, clamped fins, lethargy) and quarantine if needed.


Sydney Keeper Tips

Sydney tap water (pH ~7.2, GH ~6–8) is well within the Neocaridina comfort zone and generally fine for Blue Dream Shrimp straight from the tap — just dechlorinate as always. The moderate mineral content supports healthy moulting without needing additives for most keepers.

⚠️ Copper warning for Sydney apartments: Newer buildings with copper plumbing can leach trace copper into standing water. Always run the cold tap for 30 seconds before filling your bucket, and consider a basic copper test if you’re in a recently built unit. Shrimp are far more sensitive to copper than fish.
💡 Summer heat: Sydney summers can push unheated tanks above 28 °C. Neocaridina tolerate warmth better than Caridina, but sustained high temperatures accelerate metabolism and shorten lifespan. A clip-on fan or frozen water bottle can help during heatwaves.


Quick Reference

Scientific Name Neocaridina davidi ‘Blue Dream’
Adult Size 2–3 cm
Lifespan 1–2 years
pH 6.5–8.0
Temperature 18–28 °C (ideal 22–25 °C)
Hardness 4–14 dGH
Min Tank Size 20 L (5 gal)
Care Level Easy
Breeding Easy — berried females, 3–4 week gestation
Copper Tolerance NONE — lethal at trace levels
Grading Deeper, more opaque blue = higher grade


Frequently Asked Questions

Will Blue Dream Shrimp breed with Red Cherry Shrimp?
Yes — they’re the same species (Neocaridina davidi). Crossing produces dull brown offspring that revert toward wild colouration. Keep colour lines separate.
How do I maintain deep blue colour across generations?
Cull (rehome) any shrimp that show brown, clear, or red patches. Only breed the deepest blue specimens. Inbreeding isn’t a problem for Neocaridina.
What’s the difference between Blue Velvet, Blue Dream, and Blue Jelly?
Blue Jelly is translucent blue, Blue Velvet is lighter opaque blue, and Blue Dream is the deepest, most opaque navy blue — the highest grade.
Do they need a special diet?
No special diet. Biofilm, blanched vegetables, and quality shrimp pellets (Shrimp King, Glasgarten) are sufficient. Avoid overfeeding — it pollutes water.
Can I keep them with fish?
Only with very small, peaceful fish (Otocinclus, small Rasboras). Most fish eat shrimplets, preventing colony growth. A shrimp-only tank is ideal for breeding.

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