Honey Gourami

Meet the Species

The name *Trichogaster chuna* carries history in both halves. *Trichogaster* derives from the Greek *trichos* (hair) and *gaster* (belly), a reference to the thread-like pelvic fins that are a hallmark of gourami anatomy — these filiform fins are packed with taste and touch receptors, and the fish trails them forward like extended antennae to explore its surroundings. The species epithet *chuna* comes directly from the Bengali word for the fish, acknowledging the local name used by fishers along the rivers of Bengal and Assam. The species was first formally described by Francis Buchanan-Hamilton in 1822, making it one of the earlier anabantoid fish to receive scientific attention.

For much of the twentieth century, the honey gourami was placed in the genus *Colisa* as *Colisa chuna*, and many older aquarium books still use this name. A molecular review of the Osphronemidae family in the early 2000s reassigned the labyrinth gouramis to *Trichogaster*, which is now the accepted genus for the dwarf gouramis (including the popular *T. lalius*). Aquarium literature is still catching up, so both names appear in print and online.

In the trade, the honey gourami goes by several names: sunset gourami, honey dwarf gourami, and occasionally the gold gourami — though the last name risks confusion with a colour morph of the three-spot gourami. The ‘honey’ name is the most evocative and the most widely used, capturing both the warm amber colour of the wild type and the fish’s characteristically gentle, unhurried disposition.

Visual Varieties

In the aquarium trade, the sunset or red honey form dominates shelves, as the enhanced orange colouration shows well under bright store lighting. Wild-type specimens are less common in shops but are prized by enthusiasts for their more subtle charm. Colour intensity in all forms is strongly influenced by environment: a male kept in soft, tannin-stained water with floating plant cover and peaceful tankmates will display markedly richer hues than the same fish in a bare, brightly lit tank. Diet also matters — foods rich in carotenoids, such as frozen daphnia or quality colour-enhancing pellets, deepen both the gold and the orange tones.

Spot the Difference: Male & Female

Sexing honey gouramis is straightforward in adult fish but can be deceptive in juveniles, where both sexes wear similar drab colouration and the dorsal fin differences are not yet pronounced. The most reliable cue in mature fish is dorsal fin shape: the male’s dorsal comes to a distinct point while the female’s is rounded — this difference is visible even in fish that are not yet displaying full breeding colours. Body colouration confirms the identification; once a male reaches maturity and the tank conditions are right, his throat and belly darken to blue-black while his body glows a deeper orange.

Females with ripe eggs develop a noticeably swollen abdomen that gives them a rounded profile from above. In a group of unsexed fish from a shop, look for the slimmer, more colourful individuals — those are likely males — and the plumper, paler ones, which are likely females.

Water Quality Requirements

In the wild, honey gouramis inhabit the margins of slow rivers, oxbow lakes, flooded rice paddies, and densely vegetated ponds across northern India and Bangladesh. These habitats are typically warm, shallow, and seasonally variable in chemistry — which explains the species’ relatively broad tolerance for pH and hardness compared to, say, softwater Amazonian species. In practice, any tap water in the pH 6.5–7.5 range and below 15 dGH will produce healthy fish.

For breeding, softer and slightly more acidic conditions — pH 6.5–7.0, hardness below 8 dGH — are preferable. The labyrinth organ means surface access is non-negotiable: honey gouramis must be able to reach the water surface to gulp atmospheric air. Cover gaps are important in cold climates, as the fish breathes the air just above the water surface; cold draughts can chill the labyrinth chamber and cause respiratory illness. Always keep the surface air layer warm — maintain a lid on the aquarium.

Tank Requirements & Layout

The honey gourami is a fish of still, densely vegetated water, and the aquarium should reflect this. A minimum 40-litre tank is suitable for a pair, though 60 litres gives the male adequate territory to build and defend a bubble nest without persistently harassing the female. Length matters more than height — a long, shallow footprint provides more swimming territory and easier surface access.

Planting should be dense, especially at the rear and sides, with open swimming space in the foreground. Tall stem plants like Vallisneria, Hygrophila, or Rotala provide cover and structure. Floating plants are highly recommended — Amazon frogbit, salvinia, or water lettuce creates the shaded, sheltered surface conditions under which males build their bubble nests and display their best colour. Avoid strong surface agitation: the bubble nest will be destroyed, and the fish will spend more time stressed than displaying.

Driftwood and leaf litter give the tank a naturalistic feel that suits the species well. A dark substrate — fine black sand or dark aquasoil — makes the honey and orange tones of a healthy male stand out dramatically. Avoid keeping honey gouramis with boisterous or fin-nipping species; their long pelvic fin filaments are irresistible targets, and the fish’s naturally timid temperament means stress will quickly lead to colour loss and susceptibility to disease.

Feeding Schedule & Diet

Honey gouramis are omnivores with small, upturned mouths adapted for feeding at the surface and mid-water, picking insects and zooplankton from the underside of floating vegetation in the wild. In the aquarium, this translates to a preference for small-particle foods — micro-pellets, finely crushed flakes, or baby-sized granules rather than standard-size pellets, which the fish will struggle to consume and may reject.

A high-quality micro-pellet or nano granule should form the daily staple. Supplement three to four times per week with small frozen or live foods: frozen daphnia is an excellent choice (mirrors natural diet, high in fibre, helps prevent constipation), baby brine shrimp trigger the most enthusiastic feeding response, and micro bloodworm can be offered occasionally. Feed small amounts twice daily — honey gouramis are not greedy feeders and uneaten food in a small tank degrades water quality quickly. They may take a few days to settle in before feeding confidently, particularly in new tanks.

Breeding in Captivity

Week -1

Conditioning

Feed pair high-protein live and frozen foods

Day 0

Nest Building

Male constructs bubble nest beneath floating plants

Day 1–2

Courtship and Spawning

Male displays, embraces female beneath nest

Day 2–3

Egg Guarding

Male guards nest; remove female to prevent harassment

Day 3–4

Hatching

Eggs hatch; tiny fry visible hanging from nest

Day 5–7

Free Swimming

Fry become free-swimming; begin feeding infusoria

Conditioning

Condition the breeding pair separately for one to two weeks with live baby brine shrimp, daphnia, and small frozen bloodworm. The female should visibly round out with eggs. The male should be at peak colour — deep orange with a darkening throat. Raise the temperature to 26–27 °C in the intended breeding tank and ensure floating plant cover is in place.

Nest Building

Once the pair is introduced, the male will begin building a bubble nest at the water surface — typically anchored beneath or within floating vegetation. He blows individual saliva-coated bubbles that form a small raft or cluster. This process can take several hours to a couple of days. Do not disturb the tank during this period, as the male is easily startled off the nest.

Courtship and Spawning

The male performs a slow, spreading display with all fins extended, circling beneath the female. When she is receptive, the pair move beneath the bubble nest where the male wraps his body around the female in an embrace. She releases eggs (typically 20–60 per embrace) which he fertilises; the eggs float upward into the bubble nest. The process repeats over one to two hours until the female is spent, with 200–300 eggs total in a typical spawn.

Egg Guarding

After spawning the male becomes highly attentive to the nest, chasing the female away and catching any eggs that fall from the nest. Remove the female at this stage — she serves no further parental role and the male’s aggression toward her will intensify. Keep the tank very calm; sudden movements near the tank can cause the male to abandon the nest.

Hatching

At 26 °C, eggs typically hatch within 24–36 hours. The newly hatched fry hang vertically from the bubble nest, absorbing their yolk sac. The male continues to maintain the nest, catching fry that fall and returning them. Do not feed at this stage.

Free Swimming

Once fry are free-swimming and actively seeking food (usually 48–72 hours after hatching), begin feeding with infusoria, commercially prepared liquid fry food, or vinegar eels. After one week, introduce freshly hatched baby brine shrimp as the primary food. Remove the male at this point, as paternal guarding behaviour fades and he may begin eating fry. Growth is relatively fast and fry become recognisable juveniles within four to six weeks.